FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

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    faq-img1Observe your window film at about 2-3 feet, look through it, not at it. Your film will take almost 7-10 days to fully cure. During this time the windows will appear hazy and there will be small water pockets caused by excess moisture trapped between the glass and the film forming a kind of “blister”. Do not squeegee, prod, or poke these water blisters, they will disappear once all the water has evaporated. DO NOT roll your tinted windows down until they are dry, 3-5 days, otherwise the film could peel.
    faq-img1The best way to clean your tinted windows is by using a soft cloth preferably a microfiber towel. DO NOT use ammonia based products such as Windex, unless they are labeled AMMONIA FREE do not use. Over time, the ammonia could react to the chemicals used in the film and cause the window film to become hazy and blotchy. Stick to a 70%/ 30% ratio of a rubbing alcohol and water mixture.
    faq-img1Though we strive for perfection in all of our installations, due to the nature of the product  some degree of dust contamination and or minor imperfections are present in every window film application. Also, pre-existing flaws or scratches and mental deposits on the glass are often more noticeable after the windows are tinted.
    faq-img1Most cars have a black ceramic “frit” edge on the rear windows. Sometimes this ceramic edge is straight and flat, sometimes it will have a dotted edge. These black ceramic dots are quite thick on most cars and prevent the window film from sticking to the ceramic dots. This results in a whitish looking strip trimming the glass. Typically this isn’t very noticeable, however some cars have a wide band of dots trimming the top of the rear window. This area will look less than perfect and most times ununiformed.
    faq-img1Caution should be used when releasing seat belts. Small chips can be made in the window film due to the seat belt hitting the glass as it releases.
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